The High Atlas Mountains: Imlil, Toubkal, Ourika and Imilchil

Imlil, about 1 h 15 from Marrakech, is the trailhead for Toubkal and the easiest place to taste the mountains: mule paths between villages, tea on a terrace, and walks for every level. Kasbah Tamadot at Asni is the region’s landmark luxury stay. The Ourika valley, closer still, is greener and busier — a good half-day with lunch by the river.

The road from Marrakech to Ouarzazate climbs to about 2,260 m at the Tizi n’Tichka pass, with more than a hundred bends and wide views back over the range. It is the gateway to the kasbahs and gorges and, in winter, the one road on most routes where snow can close traffic for a few hours — which is why we never schedule it on the day before a flight.

Ouzoud Falls, about 2 h 40 north-east of Marrakech, drop around 110 metres in tiers above an olive-shaded gorge. Nearby, the lake at Bin el Ouidane is a quiet place to stay a night on a route towards Fes.

Further east, the high plateau around Imilchil and its two lakes, Isli and Tislit, is some of the least-visited country in Morocco — and home. Each September the region holds its famous gathering; we wrote an honest local account of the Imilchil marriage festival. Routes from the Dades or Todgha gorges can cross it in the warmer months.

Spring turns the valleys green and autumn is clear and settled; both are ideal for walking. In summer the mountains are the cool escape from Marrakech’s heat. In winter there is snow on the peaks — beautiful from a lodge, but high walks and the passes need flexibility.