Fes el-Bali is one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world — a city of donkeys, hand carts and staircases, where tanners, coppersmiths and weavers still work much as they did centuries ago. It is home to Al-Qarawiyyin, founded by Fatima al-Fihri in 859 and often described as the oldest continuously operating university in the world, and to some of the finest Merinid architecture in the country.
Fes rewards curiosity and a good guide. Without one, the maze can feel overwhelming; with one, it becomes the most fascinating day of the trip. Stay in a riad inside the walls — Palais Faraj by Bab Ziat or Riad Fès are our usual picks — and give it two full nights. Read more in our Fes and Meknes guide.